Tag: cocktail
Cocktail Culture: Meditation By Other Means

Cocktail Culture: Meditation By Other Means

Stressed Americans seeking calm through decluttering and meditation might add a third activity: the cocktail hour. Whether at home or out, the cocktail hour usefully separated the workday from a presumably free evening.

The TV series Mad Men revived interest in this grown-up ritual. While showing the social benefits, it didn’t ignore the downside of providing cover for alcoholism. In any case, no one was off in a corner snorting some white powder.

Cocktail culture required a certain dressing up out of respect for other participants. At its best, it bathed in beauty, taste and predictability. And those choosing not to ingest alcohol could share in the camaraderie.

The word “cocktail” appears in an 1803 issue of The Farmer’s Cabinet as a drink “excellent for the head,” but the mixing of distilled spirits and juices reached its apex in the 20th century. Prohibition (1920 to 1933) got it really going. Adding other ingredients cut down on the vile taste of bathtub gin.

Another kind of mixing in that era was of genders. Prohibition was the first time that respectable ladies and gentlemen could drink together.

In his 1948 classic, The Hour: A Cocktail Manifesto, Bernard DeVoto wrote, “The speakeasy was quietly decorated and happily illuminated, and both the pretense of secrecy and the presence of women enforced quiet behavior and good manners.”

DeVoto was a great historian of the West. Here he let loose as a cosmopolitan snob.

Trigger warning! DeVoto’s view of gender equality is delightfully retro to his fans but no doubt offensive to some feminists. His advice to a woman wanting to attract a man:

“He will equate sound liquor with sound gal and the second round will do things to your figure that Elizabeth Arden could not do for you in three months.”

Country music singer Mickey Gilley expressed similar thoughts with greater wit in Don’t the Girls All Get Prettier at Closing Time.

A wonderful overview of the aesthetics can be found in the book Cocktail Culture: Ritual and Invention in American Fashion, 1920-1980. Today’s interest in cocktail culture, it explains, “attests to a nostalgia for the glamour and role playing of earlier eras.”

The first cocktail fashions reflected the gaiety and novelty of coed drinking. Hollywood of the 1920s and ’30s covered the women in satin dresses and non-subtle jewelry.

In the 1935 movie Roberta, Fred Astaire introduces a Paris collection of cocktail outfits as follows: “‘Tis the hour for dry martinis. The Ritz bar is serving caviar and weenies. Madame is there. And from Roberta, she has something ‘too divine’ on.”

The “cocktail hat” became a big hit during the Great Depression because women could more easily afford a hat than a dress. The cocktail hat was characterized by a small silhouette, feathers, a veil and sparkles.

In the 1950s, cocktail culture moved to suburbia, becoming less formal and more American. Women wore flowered cotton dresses, men Hawaiian shirts. Florida and California offered their own mid-century vision, centered on patios and swimming pools.

But even though cocktail napkins were decorated with silly pictures and recipes, the napkins were still made of cloth. And men didn’t dream of going tieless to a sophisticated cocktail lounge.

Like many other civilizing influences, drinks at 6 went downhill in the 1960s. Proprietors of today’s surviving elegant drinking establishments have to tell patrons “no jeans.”

So put away the mobile devices and flush the illicit drugs down the drain. Cocktail culture is analog, and analog, we read, is again cool.

Said DeVoto at his wisest, “This is an hour of diminishing, of slowing down, of quieting.” Sounds like meditation, doesn’t it?

Follow Froma Harrop on Twitter @FromaHarrop. She can be reached at fharrop@gmail.com. To find out more about Froma Harrop and read features by other Creators writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators webpage at www.creators.com.

IMAGE: Adrian Scottow/Flickr

Make Spirits Bright With These 5 Cocktail, Wine-Themed Books

Make Spirits Bright With These 5 Cocktail, Wine-Themed Books

By Fred Tasker, Tribune News Service (TNS)

Every year about this time I write a column of mini-reviews of wine and spirits books as suggestions for holiday giving. I’ve come across some good ones this year. So let’s get right to it.

Wines of South America: The Essential Guide by Evan Goldstein (University of California Press, 2014, $30 hardcover). Sure, we know that Chile and Argentina make fine, often inexpensive wines. But have you ever sipped a Colombian riesling, a Paraguayan grenache or a Bolivian muscat? They all trace back to the Spanish conquistadores, who brought the grapes not for the natives, but to embolden their armor-bearing troops who were subjugating them. Goldstein, master sommelier and wine author, takes us through 10 winemaking South American countries with interesting statistics and colorful descriptions. I learned things I hadn’t known; I believe you will too.

Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Wine Book 2016 (Mitchell Beazley Publishing, $16.99 hardcover). Slim enough for your shirt pocket, the 39th edition since 1977 gives descriptions, tasting notes and vintage ratings for 6,000 wines. Regions include America, Europe, Russia, China and others. Johnson is the iconic wine author whose classic “The World Atlas of Wine” (now co-authored by wine maven Jancis Robinson) is in its seventh printing. A true classic, though you might want a magnifying glass.

Gin: The Manual by Dave Broom (Mitchell Beazley Publishing, 2015, $19.99 hardcover). Why do gins differ so? Gin is alcohol flavored by a bewildering variety of “botanicals,” including juniper berries, coriander, angelica, orris root, citrus, licorice root, almond, aniseed, cardamom, cubeb berries, ginger and at least nine other substances. Spirits author Broom tasted 120 of them by themselves, then in classic drinks like gin-and-tonic, negroni, martini and such. And lived to write a compelling, nicely illustrated book about it. You can win a thousand bar bets after reading it.

Vermouth: The Revival of the Spirit that Created America’s Cocktail Culture by Adam Ford (The Countryman Press, 2015, $24.95). If gin is trending these days, it’s followed closely by vermouth, a red or white wine flavored with aromatic herbs and used in cocktails. Author Ford, founder of Atsby New York Vermouth, has helped put vermouth in every trendy bar these days. He details its fall and rise in America and tells how to make such classics as the Dry Martini, the Manhattan and the Hanky Panky.

Experimental Cocktail Club: Paris, London & New York by Romee de Goriainoff, Pierre-Charles Cros, Olivier Bon and Xavier Padovani (Mitchell Beazley Publishing, 2015, $29.99): In 2006, three childhood friends teamed to open a trendy New York bar in Paris called the Experimental Cocktail Club. They hit it big and now have bars in Paris, London, New York and Ibiza, plus a new partner, Padovani. Here they present 85 of their cocktail recipes such as the Mezcal Mule, a blend of lime juice, cucumber slices, mescal, ginger beer, passion fruit puree and agave syrup stirred with ice and a piece of candied ginger. I think that covers all the food groups.

(Fred Tasker has retired from the Miami Herald but is still writing about wine. He can be reached at fredtaskerwine@gmail.com.)

©2015 Tribune Content Agency, LLC. Distributed by Tribune Content Agency, LLC

Photo: Arnaud 25 via Wikimedia Commons