By Clarissa Hyman (Zester Daily)
The great food writer Waverley Root condemned “pulse” as a “picturesque little word” used to describe the diet of ancient hermits — all gas and gruel, one imagines.
Yet, as he pointed out, it simply refers to beans, peas, lentils, chickpeas and the like. Or, to be strictly correct, the edible seeds of legumes, which have been a major staple food since earliest times.
The United Nations has declared 2016 the International Year of Pulses. I don’t know who thinks up such things, but it’s a splendid promotion of these great little ingredients full of protein, fiber and micronutrients. Although their fresh season is short, drying is a simple way to preserve them so they retain all their goodness and flavor.
Legumes pack nutritional punch
As well as their nutritional importance in potentially tackling chronic health conditions such as obesity and diabetes, legumes also play a major role in agriculture through their nitrogen-fixing capability and water efficiency — improving soil quality and reducing the need for chemical fertilizers. The UN Food and Agriculture Organization has created a short video highlighting the way pulses can contribute to the future of food and reduce the environmental footprint of food production.
Pulses are usually stored and cooked in whole form, although some are ground into flour. Their diversity comes from the variety that exists, sold both whole and split. The taste and texture of pulses vary enormously as well, from creamy to mealy, nutty to meaty, subtle to sweet, smooth to earthy. The assortment of shapes and colors — shiny black, tobacco brown, ecru, sage green and orange-yellow — offer a multitude of options in the kitchen. They can be served as simply as you like or as part of a complex, slow-cooked casserole, gently simmered, baked with a crisp topping or mashed to a velvet puree.
And, if all else fails, I can recommend eating ready-baked beans straight out the can. I think you know what I mean.
For ideas on how to celebrate the International Year of Pulses, visit Food Tank online.
Puy Lentils, Apricots and Walnuts
Prep time: 15 minutes (not including soaking time)
Cook time: 20 minutes
Total time: 35 minutes
Yield: Makes 6 side servings
Ingredients
2/3 cup dried apricots (soak for 15 minutes if not ready to eat)
Half a stick unsalted butter
1 large onion, finely chopped
Salt and pepper to taste
Handful chopped walnuts
2 cups cooked Puy lentils
Chopped coriander leaves for garnish
Diced feta for garnish (optional)
Directions
1. Cut the apricots in half and gently fry in the butter with the onions until both are softened. Season with salt and pepper.
2. Add the mixture of apricots and onions plus the walnuts to the cooked lentils and heat very gently for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally so the lentils do not dry out.
3. Add chunks of feta if you wish and serve at room temperature sprinkled with chopped coriander.
Buttery Saffron Beans
Prep time: 10 minutes (not including soaking time)
Cook time: 2 hours
Total time: 2 hours, 10 minutes
Yield: Makes 4 side servings
Ingredients
1 cup dried beans, soaked and drained
1 large onion, finely chopped
Large pinch of saffron strands
Half a stick unsalted butter
Salt and pepper to taste
Chopped parsley for garnish
Directions
1. Place the beans in a pan with the onions, saffron and butter.
2. Cover with water, bring to the boil and simmer, covered, for about two hours. Check the sauce level: If it’s too thick, add a little more water; if it’s too liquidy, remove the lid until it reduces.
3. Add salt and pepper to taste and serve hot sprinkled with parsley.
Kashmiri Rice and Chickpeas
Prep time: 10 minutes, not including soaking time
Cook time: 45 minutes
Total time: 55 minutes
Yield: Makes 4 to 6 servings
Ingredients<÷strong>
2 cups Basmati rice
2 onions, finely sliced
4 tablespoons oil or ghee
1 cup flaked almonds
2 tablespoons currants or raisins
2 whole cloves
2 green cardamom pods
2 bay leaves
6 whole black peppercorns
1-inch cinnamon stick
1/2 teaspoon chili powder
Salt to taste
5 cups water
2 cups dried chickpeas, soaked and boiled until soft
Directions
1. Wash and soak the rice for about 30 minutes. Drain.
2. Fry the onion in the oil until it starts to turn golden. Add the almonds and currants or raisins and fry, stirring frequently, until the onions and nuts are crisp and dark gold. Remove from the pan and set aside.
3. Add a little more oil to the pan if necessary and add all the cloves, cardamom, bay leaves, peppercorns and cinnamon stick. Fry for a few minutes then add the rice, chili powder, salt and water. Bring to the boil, cover and simmer for 15 minutes.
4. Mix in the chickpeas, preferably with a wooden fork. Cover with a clean cloth and lid and let sit for 15 minutes.
5. Serve garnished with the fried onions, nuts and currants or raisins.
Copyright 2016 Clarissa Hyman via Zester Daily and Reuters Media Express
Photo: Buttery Saffron Beans with chopped parsley. Credit: Copyright 2016 Clarissa Hyman
