Tag: ranchers
California fire

The Excruciating Pain Of Climate Catastrophe In Our Fire-Ravaged West

I got a call recently from one of my oldest friends, a retired rancher in Montana. As iconoclasts go, Ansel set the curve. We became friends during graduate school at the University of Virginia. One time he was delivering a seminar paper on William Faulkner's narrative techniques when he paused, dug in his thick, black hair and yanked.

"Tick," he announced calmly, before tossing it in a wastebasket and finishing his talk. Later, he explained that he'd been squirrel hunting, not an everyday pastime for a Ph.D. candidate.

So it wasn't a big surprise when he left academia to raise sheep in remote Highland County, Virginia. Over time, he kept moving further from civilization until he ended up seventeen miles from a town of 300 overlooking the Crazy Mountains in Montana—by then a world-class breeder of Suffolk sheep.

Most summers I would load up a couple of basset hounds—a mutual passion—and make the 24-hour drive to visit for a ten days of trout-fishing, fence-riding, baseball-watching and late-night bull sessions. One year I arrived while he was doing business on the phone. Without pausing, he slid a bottle of Irish whiskey down the counter and kept talking. His teenaged daughter was aghast. I explained that her father dislikes Irish whiskey; the bottle was a gift. My wife and his ex-wife remain the closest of friends.

Ansel alerted me to an extraordinary essay in Range, a quarterly with cowboys and grizzly bears on the cover. "The cowboy spirit on America's outback," is how the publication bills itself. It features articles sympathetic to the Bundy family's ongoing war with federal "tyranny." The editors think there are too damn many grizzlies killing livestock in Montana.

And a remarkable essay it is. Ansel was hoping I knew a national magazine editor who could reprint California rancher Dave Daley's saga of the "Bear Fire," the catastrophic blaze that destroyed hundreds of square miles of forest habitat, killed 80 percent of the author's 400 cows in the worst agony imaginable, and left him shattered, despondent, and terribly angry.

Ansel said it squared with everything he knew.

Alas, I know no such editors, but as a former small-scale cattleman, I do have a limited understanding of Daley's profound grief. Like any domestic animal, cows can get next to your heart: their unique, steadfast personalities, their strong emotional bonds.

A well-meaning friend asked Daley's daughter if the family home had burned. No, she answered, but a house can be rebuilt. A way of life cannot. At least not during our lifetimes.

The author wakes up nights crying.

"I cry for the forest, the trees and streams," he writes, "and the horrible deaths suffered by the wildlife and our cattle. The suffering was unimaginable. When you find groups of cows and their baby calves tumbled in a ravine trying to escape, burned almost beyond recognition, you try not to retch. You only pray death was swift."

Certainly, the author knows whereof he speaks. His family has been grazing cattle in what's now the Plumas National Forest since the 1850s: Taking them into the mountains after spring snowmelt and gathering them every October. He has a PhD in Animal Science, and is a past president of the California Cattlemen's Association.

Much of Daley's essay recounts the agonizing labor of family and friends—experienced local hands all—working with chain-saws and four wheelers to find and all too often euthanize cows with agonizing injuries; burnt hooves and incinerated udders. The photos are harrowing.

And what the author believes is that these catastrophes don't have to happen. Forest fires are inevitable and can be beneficial in clearing undergrowth that serves as fuel and sucks the moisture from the soil. Virtually all of California's most destructive fires, he points out, have started on public land.

"For those of you on the right who want to blame the left and California," he points out, "these are National Forest lands that are 'managed' by the feds. They have failed miserably over the past 50 years. Smokey the Bear was the cruelest joke ever played on the western landscape, a decades-long campaign to prevent forest fires has resulted in mega-fires of a scope we've never seen. Thanks, Smokey."

Daley sees tree huggers sharing the blame: "And, for those of you on the left who want to blame it all on climate change, the regulations at the state and federal level have crippled—no, stopped—any progress towards changing the unmitigated disasters facing our landscapes."

Alas, it's the "Tragedy of the Commons" writ large. Everybody's got a claim on the National Forest, but nobody's responsible. Insofar as Daley offers a solution, it would be a return to local control, and to controlled burns like Native Americans used to manage ecosystems for 13,000 years before white men arrived.

But that looks politically impossible. For example, who qualifies as "local"? Hence, perhaps, Daley's helpless anger and his elegiac tone.

In The High Plains, Mutual Aid Saves Ranchers From Merciless Wildfires

In The High Plains, Mutual Aid Saves Ranchers From Merciless Wildfires

Another spring, another season of catastrophic wildfires in the high plains. This year it was Oklahoma, where wind-driven flames consumed over 350,000 acres of pasture, killing thousands of cows, destroying barns, homes and fences. New York Times reporter Mitch Smith described the scene around Vici, OK (pop. 699), a ranching community in the western part of the state.
“The fire’s timing was especially cruel,” Smith explained. “coming in the midst of an extreme drought. Dead cows appear along roadsides, hooves pointed to the sky. Driveways lead to piles of rubble. When the wind blows, it smells a bit like a campfire.”
Last year it was Medicine Lodge, Kansas—400,000 acres ruined, an area larger than metropolitan New York and Chicago combined—and the largest prairie wildfire in Kansas history. Eastern Montana and the Texas panhandle also experienced disastrous blazes in 2017—a million acres consumed in all.
The Times Jack Healy described Angus cows “stagger[ing] around like broken toys, unable to see or breathe, their black fur and dark eyes burned, plastic identification tags melted to their ears. Young calves lay dying.”
Ranchers spent days shooting their stricken livestock and burying them in mass graves with a backhoe, heartbroken and facing financial ruin.
You can get to love cows when you know them, each with a personality as singular as any domestic animal’s. Having once had to shoot a horse to spare him needless suffering, I can’t even imagine euthanizing an entire herd.
It’s a bitter, hard thing.
Not to mention that every cow that goes into the ground represents a $1500 to $2000 loss, and a whole lot of labor. Rebuilding a herd takes years.
“This is our Hurricane Katrina,” one Kansas rancher told a Times reporter. Yes, there’s insurance money and assistance from the U.S. Department of Agriculture, but it’s often too little and too late. What’s worse is that whether or not the region’s politicians—in thrall to energy producers and science-denying religious fundamentalists—choose to acknowledge it, global climate change is causing bigger and more frequent prairie wildfires all the time.
Ranchers tend to be fatalistic about the weather. You would be too. Meanwhile, however, livestock producers are going to extraordinary lengths to help each other. Reporters described great convoys of trucks arriving at the Oklahoma scene last week from all over middle-America laden with tons of free, life-saving hay.
It’s a classic American story of ingenuity and mutual aid: powered by social media, word-of-mouth and a region-wide honor system. Reporter Mitch Smith interviewed two brothers named Levi and Blake Smith who loaded a couple of semi-trailers with 64 round bales of hay—each weighing about 1200 pounds and worth at least $2000 altogether. The brothers drove 100 miles west and donated the whole load to rancher Rhett Smith, enough to feed his and his neighbors’ cows for several weeks until the pastures green up.
Always assuming it rains, that is.
The Smiths are no kin and hadn’t previously met. The brothers explained that donated hay saved their ranch after the 2017 fire, and they felt compelled to pay it forward. It’s become a tradition throughout the high-plains, along with thousands of volunteer firefighters who drive hundreds of miles and sleep in churches and school gymnasiums to save all they can from the flames.
There’s also a fair amount of grumbling about the inefficiency and uselessness of government in such emergencies. Coming from states that have elected Republican politicians who have cut taxes and reduced government services while promising magical economic growth that somehow never materializes, that may strike metropolitan readers as a bit rich.
“The people in this region would vote for Satan himself if there was an ‘R’ behind his name,” wrote one caustic commenter to the Times. “Reality bites.”
Smug much?
Having lived in cattle country the last decade, however, I’m inclined to cut the ranchers some slack. When I think Oklahoma, I think Garth Brooks, not Scott Pruitt. Also, it’s simply a fact that government can rarely act as efficiently and humanely as the brothers Smith.
Will the hay-donating system always work? Who knows? It’s working now. Somebody ought to make a movie.
In my experience, cattle and horse people are an admirable lot. Take my Perry County hay guy, C.J. Gunther. Once a few years back, a terrible drought had Texans driving over to buy Arkansas hay, bidding it up to a rumored $100 a bale. So when I went to settle up for the winter, I braced myself.
How much did I owe him?
Same as last year, he said. $35 a bale. For this, I should add, he loaded my truck and trailer weekly, saving me the expense of a tractor. I said I knew he could easily have sold his high-quality, Bermuda grass hay for a lot more.
 C.J. looked a little shocked.
 “I reckon so,” he said. “But you’re my neighbor.”