The National  Memo Logo

Smart. Sharp. Funny. Fearless.

Monday, December 09, 2019 {{ new Date().getDay() }}

By Linda Bergstrom, Chicago Tribune (TNS)

Think about it. London, on your own. And you can do whatever you want to do. Fantastic!

And, yet: Wouldn’t it just be easier to book a tour?

Save that stiff single supplement. Being a solo traveler without a pre-planned itinerary — save hotel reservations — can be a pretty great thing in London. The culturally vibrant, diverse city has lots to offer beyond its many museums and fun shopping.

Here’s how to put the power of one into action:

Get your learn on: London Walks offers tours of many local favorites, from Harry Potter lore to the British Museum. One of the best features is that you don’t need reservations — just show up at the scheduled time and pay 10 British pounds. The Saturday morning tour of Notting Hill and Portobello Market balanced the old and the new. Our informative guide took the group of 20 tourists along the back roads of the now trendy Notting Hill neighborhood, pointing out features such as the kilns once used to bake bricks, the former paths of Roman horse races, and the homes of the famous (yes, Annie Lennox lived there). There might have been one or two fans of the Hugh Grant movie who were thrilled to see key film locations (The bookstore! The church!). The two-hour tour ended at the packed Portobello Market, which is not named after a mushroom after all but has Roman roots. Everyone can find something in this hodgepodge of local food and trinkets and interesting antiques. www.walks.com.

Brush up on Shakespeare: One of the tips gleaned from a local was a real gem: cheap shows at the Globe the theater rebuilt by the late American actor Sam Wanamaker to recreate Shakespeare’s original theater along the Thames. You can catch a play, performed outside in the round and with audience members standing, for only 5 pounds in the warmer months. But don’t pass up the sometimes quirky offerings in the Sam Wanamaker Playhouse. Although it is a new theater, the playhouse is lit by candlelight, and patrons sit (or stand) like the Bard’s fans did long ago. A song cycle reportedly from a list of Anne Boleyn offered an entertaining glimpse into the British fascination with all things royal. The songs were captivating, and the setting was truly magical. www.shakespearesglobe.com

See Hyde Park by bike: One of the best ways to experience the 350-acre Hyde Park is through the bike share system. You can rent a comfortable bike (2 pounds for up to 30 minutes at a time) and pedal along the many paths. The rental lasts all day, and there are lots of docking stations, so you can take things slow. You are likely to ride past horse riders on the adjacent track on your way to the picturesque Serpentine lake. At the south end is Kensington Gardens. Take a peek into the Diana, Princess of Wales Memorial Playground before heading off to Kensington Palace. A tour of the public part of the palace (it is also the official London residence of the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge, aka William and Kate) reveals much about Queen Victoria and her love for her husband, Prince Albert. You can take in the beautiful grounds or head over to the Orangery for its celebrated tea. www.royalparks.org.uk

Tea at the Ritz: You need to book ahead (and early) to secure a seat for afternoon tea in the Palm Court of the Ritz London. This iconic afternoon tea is worth the 61 British pounds. The opulent room is very, very pink, but somehow it works. It’s the kind of place where you want to wear your best — and, in fact, jackets are required for men. The tea service starts with savories, including an exquisite egg salad. Even a table of one gets the full complement of sweets, from fruit tart to macaroons. Then come the scones and clotted cream and a slice of specialty dessert. The Ritz works to make the single diner feel welcome, offering magazines and newspapers. During my visit, the reading materials remained untouched as I was too busy sampling the wonderful food and drinking in the scene. www.theritzlondon.com/palm-court

Experience the countryside: Some of the most beautiful English countryside is a short train ride away. The Cotswolds has many iconic postcard villages, which are easily accessible via the bus system. Plus, it is home to the Cotswold Way, more than 100 miles of walking trails. A hike up the hill in Broadway traveled through sheep fields on the way to the Broadway Tower. The views were spectacular, and it was just fun to unlock the gates and join the locals (and their dogs) on an afternoon stroll. www.nationaltrail.co.uk/cotswold-way

The logistics of solo in London

Solo travelers are becoming a travel force. According to the Visa Global Travel Intentions Study 2015 prepared by Millward Brown, 24 percent of travelers took an overseas vacation alone in 2015, up from 15 percent in 2013. And many were women.

There are certainly safety considerations: Share your itinerary and use caution in public places. Other tips:

Get your bearings early by booking a guided bus tour. It is the easiest way to note where you would like to return, and it will most likely take you to areas you may not be able to get back to. The hop-on, hop-off tour I did also included a fun boat tour on the Thames from Tower of London to Westminster. VisitLondon.com is a good place to explore the options.

Get a cellphone that has map and phone access: You will want to be able to use your phone to see where you are, look up information on the fly, and make calls. (And your mother will still worry about you and want you to check in.) Cellular providers offer international plans, but the data plans are wickedly expensive. Buy a cheap unlocked phone at home, and get a SIM card right near the baggage claim at Heathrow.

London’s Underground is safe and efficient, and there’s an entrance seemingly around every corner. If you want to get out of the city, skip the car and opt for the excellent train system. Booking on a service like Trainline (www.thetrainline.com) will save you some cash.

Dining for one? One London resident warned that it would be tough to get a table for one at a nice restaurant in London. “They want to serve two people, not one,” he warned. He was right. They can’t refuse you, but they can ignore you to the point of discomfort. One word: Pubs. The Scarsdale Tavern in Kensington is picturesque and welcoming and had a great lamb shank for 16 British pounds. The Churchill Arms not only has memorabilia from the noted prime minister but also serves cheap, tasty Thai food. Another great dining option is Harrods. The food emporium is famous for its fantastic selection, from homemade meat pies to caviar, and there are several themed mini-restaurants. It also has an impressive takeaway selection.

(Linda Bergstrom is a freelance reporter.)

©2016 Chicago Tribune. Distributed by Tribune Content Agency, LLC.

Photo: In Hyde Park, bicyclists ride a path adjacent to horse trails. (Linda Bergstrom/Chicago Tribune/TNS)

Advertising

Start your day with National Memo Newsletter

Know first.

The opinions that matter. Delivered to your inbox every morning

Former President Donald Trump, left, and former White House counsel Pat Cipollone

On Wednesday evening the House Select Committee investigating the Trump coup plot issued a subpoena to former White House counsel Pat Cipollone, following blockbuster testimony from former White House aide Cassidy Hutchinson, who said the lawyer had warned of potential criminal activity by former President Donald Trump and his aides.

The committee summons to Cipollone followed long negotiations over his possible appearance and increasing pressure on him to come forward as Hutchinson did. Committee members expect the former counsel’s testimony to advance their investigation, owing to his knowledge of the former president's actions before, during and after the January 6, 2021 attack on the U.S. Capitol.

Keep reading... Show less

Mark Meadows

Donald Trump’s White House Chief of Staff Mark Meadows wanted a presidential pardon. He had facilitated key stages of Trump’s attempted 2020 coup, linking the insurrectionists to the highest reaches of the White House and Congress.

But ultimately, Meadows failed to deliver what Trump most wanted, which was convincing others in government to overturn the 2020 election. And then his subordinates, White House security staff, thwarted Trump’s plan to march with a mob into the Capitol.

Meadows’ role has become clearer with each January 6 hearing. Earlier hearings traced how his attempted Justice Department takeover failed. The fake Electoral College slates that Meadows had pushed were not accepted by Congress. The calls by Trump to state officials that he had orchestrated to “find votes” did not work. Nor could Meadows convince Vice-President Mike Pence to ignore the official Electoral College results and count pro-Trump forgeries.

And as January 6 approached and the insurrection began, new and riveting details emerged about Meadow’s pivotal role at the eye of this storm, according to testimony on Tuesday by his top White House aide, Cassidy Hutchinson.

Meadows had been repeatedly told that threats of violence were real. Yet he repeatedly ignored calls from the Secret Service, Capitol police, White House lawyers and military chiefs to protect the Capitol, Hutchinson told the committee under oath. And then Meadows, or, at least White House staff under him, failed Trump a final time – although in a surprising way.

After Trump told supporters at a January 6 rally that he would walk with them to the Capitol, Meadows’ staff, which oversaw Trump’s transportation, refused to drive him there. Trump was furious. He grabbed at the limousine’s steering wheel. He assaulted the Secret Service deputy, who was in the car, and had told Trump that it was not safe to go, Hutchinson testified.

“He said, ‘I’m the f-ing president. Take me up to the Capitol now,’” she said, describing what was told to her a short while later by those in the limousine. And Trump blamed Meadows.

“Later in the day, it had been relayed to me via Mark that the president wasn’t happy that Bobby [Engel, the driver] didn’t pull it off for him, and that Mark didn’t work hard enough to get the movement on the books [Trump’s schedule].”

Hutchinson’s testimony was the latest revelations to emerge from hearings that have traced in great detail how Trump and his allies plotted and intended to overturn the election. Her eye-witness account provided an unprecedented view of a raging president.

Hutchinson’s testimony was compared to John Dean, the star witness of the Watergate hearings a half-century ago that led to the resignation of President Richard Nixon for his aides’ efforts to spy on and smear Democrats during the 1972 presidential campaign.

“She IS the John Dean of the hearings,” tweeted the Brooking Institution’s Norman Eisen, who has written legal analyses on prosecuting Trump. “Trump fighting with his security, throwing plates at the wall, but above all the WH knowing that violence was coming on 1/6. The plates & the fighting are not crimes, but they will color the prosecution devastatingly.”

Meadows’ presence has hovered over the coup plot and insurrection. Though he has refused to testify before the January 6 committee, his pivotal role increasingly has come into view.

Under oath, Hutchinson described links between Meadows and communication channels to the armed mob that had assembled. She was backstage at the Trump’s midday January 6 rally and described Trump’s anger that the crowd was not big enough. The Secret Service told him that many people were armed and did not want to go through security and give up their weapons.

Trump, she recounted, said “something to the effect of, ‘I don’t f-ing care that they have weapons. They’re not here to hurt me. Take the mags [metal detectors] away. Let the people in. They can march to the Capitol from here.

As the day progressed and the Capitol was breached, Hutchison described the scene at the White House from her cubicle outside the Oval Office. She repeatedly went into Meadows’ office, where he had isolated himself. When Secret Service officials urged her to get Meadows to urge Trump to tell his supporters to stand down and leave, he sat listless.

“He [Meadows] needs to snap out of it,” she said that she told others who pressed her to get Meadows to act. Later, she heard Meadows repeatedly tell other White House officials that Trump “doesn’t think they [insurrectionists] are doing anything wrong.” Trump said Pence deserved to be hung as a traitor, she said.

Immediately after January 6, Hutchinson said that Trump’s cabinet discussed invoking the 25th Amendment to remove a sitting president but did not do so. She also said that Meadows sought a pardon for his January 6-related actions.

Today, Meadows is championing many of the same election falsehoods that he pushed for Trump as a senior partner at the Conservative Partnership Institute (CPI), a right-wing think tank whose 2021 annual report boasts of “changing the way conservatives fight.”

His colleagues include Cleta Mitchell, a lawyer who pushed for Trump to use every means to overturn the election and leads CPI’s “election integrity network,” and other Republicans who have been attacking elections as illegitimate where their candidates lose.

Hutchinson’s testimony may impede Meadows’ future political role, as it exposes him to possible criminal prosecution. But the election-denying movement that he nurtured has not gone away. CPI said it is targeting elections in national battleground states for 2022’s midterms, including Arizona, Georgia, Florida, Michigan, and Pennsylvania.

Trump did not give Meadows a pardon. But in July 2021, Trump’s “Save America” PAC gave CPI $1 million.

Steven Rosenfeld is the editor and chief correspondent of Voting Booth, a project of the Independent Media Institute. He has reported for National Public Radio, Marketplace, and Christian Science Monitor Radio, as well as a wide range of progressive publications including Salon, AlterNet, The American Prospect, and many others.

{{ post.roar_specific_data.api_data.analytics }}